If you're stood there holding a trench, undecided, here's what I'd say: buy it a size that lets you do the belt up properly and still wear a jumper underneath, because that's the whole point of the thing, and a trench that only works over a thin shirt is a trench that'll sit at the back of the rail from November onwards.
It's not the right coat for everything, and I think it gets sold that way too often. It's not warm on its own once the temperature really drops, it's a shell, not an insulator, so anything under about six degrees you'll want a proper jumper and maybe a scarf, and even then the wind gets in round the collar. It's also not forgiving if you're after something to throw on without thinking, because the belt and the collar need a bit of attention every time or you end up looking like you've been dragged through a hedge rather than dressed.
Where it struggles is against anything too fussy underneath. A trench has a lot going on already, the collar, the belt, the storm flap, the buttons, so a busy print dress or a chunky statement necklace underneath just competes with it. I keep mine for plain jumpers, a white shirt, straight leg jeans, that sort of thing. It also doesn't love being paired with another big coat moment, so leave the oversized scarf and the giant tote at home and let the shape of the coat do what it's meant to do.
How it wears over time depends almost entirely on what it's made of. A cotton gabardine one will soften with wear, the creases will drop out after a few weeks of actual use, and it'll start to look like it's yours rather than fresh off a hanger, which I like. Rain beads on it rather than soaking straight through, for a while anyway, and then eventually it needs reproofing or it just gets damp and heavy. Keep it on a proper hanger, not a hook, or the shoulders go out of shape. A gentle wash or a trip to the cleaners when it needs it, not every month, it doesn't need fussing over.
The difference between a good one and a disappointing one shows up fast. Cheap ones use a thin, shiny fabric that creases and stays creased, and buttons that feel light and loose within a season. A better one has a proper belt that doesn't fray at the end, buttons stitched firmly rather than glued, and a collar that holds its shape when you turn it up rather than flopping straight back down. Check the stitching round the shoulder straps too, that's usually where it gives up first.
Reach for it on the days that aren't quite cold enough for a heavy coat but aren't mild either, over a jumper, on your way somewhere that matters a bit.
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