One thing I love about black vintage is that it has zero fucks to give about taking up space. There’s something about the bulk of a 1960s wool coat or the architectural lines of a 1970s wide-leg pant that commands: Look at me. I’m here.

I matter. I was made to be worn again. When I’m dressing myself for these weird, uncertain times—trust me, we are living in UNCERTAIN TIMES—clothing wise, I gravitate towards black vintage because it speaks with authority.

It already exudes confidence, so I don’t have to dress in a way that tries to prove I have it. When I was transitioning, I found myself particularly drawn to black vintage because so much of presenting in public felt new and vulnerable.

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A lot of contemporary clothing feels downright wispy in comparison.

But a blazer from the 1980s with shoulder SEAMSTITCHING that won’t fold at the elbows when you get sideways glances. A black vintage dress with enough fabric POPPERPENDICULAR that won’t cling to your body under fluorescent strip lighting or when you’re perching on hard chairs at town hall meetings. As I started pulling this collection together, I realised that I kept coming back to “armor” pieces.

I wasn’t talking about those try-hard pieces that are big and bulky for the sake of big and bulky. I mean garments that have such substantial cuts and fabrics that you can just be yourself inside of them. I picked outfits for three different vibes because that’s luxury of black vintage: it works for running errands, dressing up for those fancy “smart casual” things (I know, let’s deep dive on that term some time), and everything in between.

Including some outfits that feel like comfort clothes but look way too put together to be your average jersey wrap top and leggings. For the low-key capsule, I wanted pieces that could stand up to moving through the world and not constantly need adjusted. My hard pass: anything that was going to pinch my waist if I sat down or required me to standlikeadaracorn at all times.

I nixed anything with delicate buttons or bonings, easily snagged fabrics, or cape like sleeve details that only look good in photos. I approved: wide leg trousers with WHOLE waistbands that won’t dig into your stomach after eating lunch, body conscious tops with sleeves that move with your arms rather than tether to your shoulders. For these slightly dressier options, I wanted pieces that could take you from daytime errands to night time outings without a complete outfit swap.

I filtered through anything too try-hard. You know the stuff I’m talking about, that vintage shopping trash. Dressing in vintage sometimes makes you walk differently, especially if you get caught up in the aesthetics and forget you actually have to MOVE in these clothes.

I was looking for stuff with weight that could work for dinner or a show, but that wouldn’t make you feel overdressed while running errands beforehand. This made the cut: silky details that look intentional versus prostitutes-on-venture, and substantial fabrics that photograph well but more importantly, FEEL good. Fit and construction are everything when it comes to vintage.

I only kept items where the original construction was still in tact. Interfacings that hadn’t melted away, button holes that weren’t about to unravel, seams that hadn’t stretched out with wear. I kept rejecting pieces that looked ah-maze-ing on the hangry but revealed their true sins when put on.

Something about black vintage: when it’s made badly, you can SEE how badly it’s made. Loose threads, discoloration, poor alterations, suspicious repairs. If it’s made it this far in good condition, nine times out of ten that’s because it was actually made well to begin with.

Last but certainly not least, I wanted some black vintage options that maintained that vintage weight but leaned harder into comfort. I just couldn’t, even for you guys, justify anything that required you to wear a special slip or thatrestricted movement in any way. If I wasn’t 100% sure I could wear it for 12 hours and still want to cuddle with it when I got home, it didn’t make the cut.

Say goodbye to scratchy lining, too tight sleeves, or narrow waistlines that only look good when you suck in your gut and stand like a rod. Speaking of the fabric. Vintage seemingly has a radar for wool cottons and silks that are exponentially thicker and feel unlike most modern fabric.

Which is great! But heavy fabric can be terrible if it doesn’t fit well. Too many times I’ve tried on vintage dresses that are heavy AF but the sleeves don’t move with your arms, or someone years ago took up the waist thinking they were helping.

I quickly filtered through anything with fabric fighting the construction of the piece, or past alterations that made me worry about future ripping. I chose stuff that uses the weight of the fabric to compliment the fit, rather than distract from it.

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This is the cool part about curating your wardrobe with black vintage.

When enough trendy pieces come and go, you’re finally left with things that just don’t give a damn about being here one day. There’s something so relaxing about getting dressed when the foundation of your wardrobe are pieces that have already proven they stick around. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying modern shit is garbage and everyone should live rent-free in vintage.

We’ve all bought things that were two seasons ago and we hated loved hated loved. But I will say there is something to be said about clothing that was constructed to last; clothes that were cut with enough negative space to work for actual humans living actual lives. I made sure to include options for high drama days and low effort days.

Some days you want thatStatement Vintage Coat that gives new meaning to your silhouette. Other days you just need that high-school-of-dreams vintage inspired basics feeling without actually wearing high-school-of-dreams basics. We’ve got you for those days too.

And, of course, every outfit in between. Where the majority of us spend our time living: Substantial enough to feel like you gave AF but forgiving enough that you forget what you’re wearing as you go about your day.

Author carl

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